Monthly Archives: July 2017

Fitting the seat/bed

This photo shows the two bolts which pass upwards through the RIB fitting kit under the floor.  The bolts have to be inserted this way so they don’t clash with the spare wheel.
The other five bolts are supposed to point downwards and each have a spreader-plate (I rust-proofed them before fitting).



This was the most difficult bolt to fit so I decided to fit this in an upwards position (since it’s inside one of the trailing arm suspension mounts).


I needed a very long articulated socket to get at some of the nuts.

Cable routing

This is where/how I’m routing cables from the fuse box and to the battery which will be under the seat.  This point will sit just above the lower part of the seat frame.
Drilling holes for the cable routing.

Getting the cabling all sorted!

Cables which need to route to under the seat in trunking.
Holes through the unit (seat/bed is not fitted in position yet, i.e. is further back from its correct position).  The blue cable is the mains cable for the 240V socket on the worktop.
Cables in place.

Drilling back of the back box prior to fitting.This is the location of the back box.

Seat in place.

Fitting the furniture

Making sure that I get the two furniture parts in line. Panel fitted to mount the fuse panel.Fuse panel, rear view.

Fixings for the rear tall unit (front edge).Fixings at the front of the rear unit.After fitting the rear unit at the front edge I decided to make it even more secure.  This is the bracket I made, prior to fitting.Additional support/fixing for the rear unit.  I bolted this through the van floor (I’m making sure this furniture doesn’t move!).All done and bolted.Fixings for the connection of the two units.Fixing on the rear OS pillar.Brackets ready to fix the rear unit.Fixings for the rear/tall unit, rear edge, bolted in to rivnuts.More of the same.I fitted four Rivnuts below the window to fit the unit securely.Close up of two of the fixings.Bolting the unit in place, fixings 1, 2 & 3.Fixing 4.Job done.

Electrics cabling/preparation

Have been giving the electrics some thoughts over the past weeks and these are my thoughts/doings.

Starting with the battery, I wanted to get one with a reasonable rating and have elected to not to try to squeeze it in under one of the front seats as many do.  Instead I’m going to mount it under the rear seat/bed.  This is the one I’ve gone for, from Alpha Batteries.

On The subject of charging I started with a standard split charge set up but since then have had a change of heart and now I’ve gone for different solution.  I plan to add a solar panel or two at some point so also wanted to consider this in relation to the charger. I looked at three different charges one from Ctek one from Ring and the other from Ablemail.

The CTEK D250SA was the 1st one I found and looked pretty good but is only rated at 20A (unless you add the CTEK SMARTPASS 120 unit to boost it, but that makes it more expensive and takes up more space too).

I was also tempted by the Ring RSCDC30, which is rated at 30A and is quite cheap compared to the other two.

In the end I decided to go with the Ablemail AMS12-12-30 one since it’s rated at 30A, silent running (fanless) and also has a serial interface I may make use of later.

In addition to the 12v charger I will be installing a CTEK mains charger which I already have.

Mains-wise I have purchased a small consumer unit with 16A and 6A breakers, the former for a couple of mains plugs and the latter for the charger.

I got most of the wire, connectors and also the fuse box from 12voltplanet.  The fuse box is a 10-way one, so plenty space for expansion.

I decided to buy CBE switches and sockets since I think they look tidy.

This is the location where most of the wiring converges and the location of the fuse box (this will be in the low unit to the RHS of the sink).
I’ve installed some trunking for most of the wiring (along with pull wire) since I’m bound to want to install something later!
Area behind the fridge on the off-side.
The OSR panel cut ready for installation.
Loads of wires!
I had to make some clips/brackets to hold the heater controller in-place.And from the front.
Cabling behind the OSR panel along with foam, to hopefully stop any rattles!
I made use of this existing negative point.Almost ready for panel fit.
Panel from the rear, I added some foam for sound deadening.  Note the invisible fixings on the LHS of the panel (RHS of the photo).Panel from the front.
And finally in place.  I didn’t bother with invisible fixings, except on the LHS, since they’ll be hidden by the unit.  You can see where the three square/rectangle back boxes too, which I will use for access behind the panel if needed in the future.
Close-up of the panel where the switches and sockets go (notice no visible fixings!). 

Fitting the floor, at last!

After test fitting the floor I noticed that that the bolts for the LPG tank brackets were slightly proud so I had to remove some of wood from the bottom side of the ply floor to enable to floor to lay flat.
This is the view from above, just before I fit the floor.
This is the ply floor with the edging strip stapled in place (when doing so remember to allow for the thickness of the Altro flooring too (I used an off cut as a guide.  The black areas are just the sections I decided to stain, the larger area where the water will be located.  The front edge is stained black since the front edge of the floor will be visible (well at least until I decide what to do with it!).

Now the floor’s in place, albeit not tucked in at the edges (over the ending strip) and also not taped down.Now it’s time to tape the floor covering down (the tape came with the floor).

And more tape on the NS.

Close to the sliding door (the wiring is my car radio switch which will be in the small panel next to the door).
The view from the sliding door, before I fit the new step.
The new rear threshold fitted.