Author Archives: Heathy

Cable routing

This is where/how I’m routing cables from the fuse box and to the battery which will be under the seat.  This point will sit just above the lower part of the seat frame.
Drilling holes for the cable routing.

Getting the cabling all sorted!

Cables which need to route to under the seat in trunking.
Holes through the unit (seat/bed is not fitted in position yet, i.e. is further back from its correct position).  The blue cable is the mains cable for the 240V socket on the worktop.
Cables in place.

Drilling back of the back box prior to fitting.This is the location of the back box.

Seat in place.

Fitting the furniture

Making sure that I get the two furniture parts in line. Panel fitted to mount the fuse panel.Fuse panel, rear view.

Fixings for the rear tall unit (front edge).Fixings at the front of the rear unit.After fitting the rear unit at the front edge I decided to make it even more secure.  This is the bracket I made, prior to fitting.Additional support/fixing for the rear unit.  I bolted this through the van floor (I’m making sure this furniture doesn’t move!).All done and bolted.Fixings for the connection of the two units.Fixing on the rear OS pillar.Brackets ready to fix the rear unit.Fixings for the rear/tall unit, rear edge, bolted in to rivnuts.More of the same.I fitted four Rivnuts below the window to fit the unit securely.Close up of two of the fixings.Bolting the unit in place, fixings 1, 2 & 3.Fixing 4.Job done.

Fitting the floor, at last!

After test fitting the floor I noticed that that the bolts for the LPG tank brackets were slightly proud so I had to remove some of wood from the bottom side of the ply floor to enable to floor to lay flat.
This is the view from above, just before I fit the floor.
This is the ply floor with the edging strip stapled in place (when doing so remember to allow for the thickness of the Altro flooring too (I used an off cut as a guide.  The black areas are just the sections I decided to stain, the larger area where the water will be located.  The front edge is stained black since the front edge of the floor will be visible (well at least until I decide what to do with it!).

Now the floor’s in place, albeit not tucked in at the edges (over the ending strip) and also not taped down.Now it’s time to tape the floor covering down (the tape came with the floor).

And more tape on the NS.

Close to the sliding door (the wiring is my car radio switch which will be in the small panel next to the door).
The view from the sliding door, before I fit the new step.
The new rear threshold fitted.

Prepping the floor, electrics placement & LPG tank brackets

Now I have the exact location of the seat it’s time to consider the fit of other items and also what additional holes I need to drill through the floor.

This is the view from the rear, under the centre section of the Rib seat. I’m planning to locate the leisure battery, chargerand mains consumer unit under hear whislt leaving space for the toilet at the front.
This is the battery mount I purchased on eBay (I don’t want such a heavy item moving at all in a crash!). Also you can see the hole I have drilled to access the negative connection for the battery I have made.
I drilled a hole through the floor then removed all of the paint from both sides around the hole, fitted a long bolt with large washers on both sites to ensure I get a good electrical connection. The second hole is for the conduit I will use for the mains cable from the underbody mounted socket.
View from underneath.
This shows a couple of holes in the unit to the right of the sink.  The larger one is for the gas drop-vent and the other for the gas pipe to the Propex heater.
Next I needed to ensure that the mounts for the LPG tank would be secure. Unfortunatley the location of the brackets meant that I had to modify some of the wooden spacers I’d installed.
One of the brackets I made (I had to cut a section out to avoid one of the battery tray mount holes).
Brackets in place.
All the holes made in the Altro flooring.  Notice the ridges in the flooring, my fault for having it rolled up for too long.  Luckily I managed to get rid of them by leaving it rolled out for a while.

Drilling the holes for the Rib seat/bed

Following on from my earlier blog entry when I fitted the Rib seat under body bracket and drilled the two central rearmost holes, now it’s time to drill the others.

With the furniture in place (albeit not fixed, but in the exact/right position) I fitted the two rear bolts (just the bolts, not the nuts) then lined up the seat so it was square and also ensured the seat didn’t touch the NS wall or the furniture, both in seat and bed mode. I then marked the location of the remaining holes on the wooden floor then drilled them through.

As you’ll see in the next photos my estimates (the yellow dots) weren’t too far off!

This is the NSR hole.

This is the OSR hole which travels through the crossmember so needs the longer bolt to be used.

This is the NSF hole.

This is the OSF hole above the exhaust.

This is the front centre hole, which is the hardest to see since it’s inside the swinging arm suspension mount!

This is a picture with all the bolts in place (just test fit).

Lining the OSR panel and fitting

So time to put the lining on the OSR panel.  A first-time for me since the guys who fitted the roof & windows did the rest.

These are the “invisible” clips I used for the top LHS fixings.

I used spray adhesive (from Kiravans) and applied it to both sides then wait a short time.

Then I carefully applied it (a two person job), putting the lining on top of the ply.  I folded the edges over then when the adhesive was set I carefully trimmed the lining back to the edge.

I had to glue some extra bits of ply to enable the back box to fit correctly.

Now ready to fit.

Preparing the OSR panel

The ply panel I got didn’t have any holes in it for fixing so I had some fun drilling them in the correct locations.  Also for some of the holes the standard VW clips weren’t long enough so I bought a few longer ones from here.  For this panel I didn’t care that the clips will be visible except on the LHS where I used hidden clips.

When I test fitted the OSR panel I found that it didn’t sit flush on the LHS edge near the window.  There aren’t any standard holes to clip the panel in this location so I made some brackets myself and used rivnuts to fix them.

And now some electrical preparation too

I’d been thinking about what electrical wiring I needed to run behind the panels once I fitted them.  Not having converted a van before I was conscious that I’m bound to forget some cable or want to add something later so I’ve decided to use flexible conduit and make sure I have some access in the future.

This is the access point behind the drawer.

And viewed in-place.  I’ve added a piece of conduit from this point to the one in the next photo, further back in the van.

This is the point further back in the van.

This shows the access points on the, yet to be covered, rear panel.  You can also see the various holes I cut in the top LHS of the panel for the various switches/sockets I’ll be fitting.

The larger hole is for the Propex heater thermostat.

I had to carefully remove the cable housing to fit the cable through the necessary holes.

I also drilled a number of small holes to allow for cable access (and added grommets).

This is the hole for the conduit which will run to under the drivers seat (I didn’t fancy drilling a biggish hole in the bottom of the B-pillar for cable access).

A bit of basic plumbing

Since I was test fitting the fridge and part of the furniture I thought I better have a look at the plumbing, specifically the waste/drain.

I removed the plastic under panel to see what I could see and also looked from inside at the pre-existing holes behind the door panel.  I used a cable rod to find a route through, once I had identified this I used a drill to slightly enlarge the internal hole so the waste hose would fit (there underbody hole was big enough already).

In relation to the drainage pipe, I’d read on a forum that there’s a route through the bottom of the O/S door panel rather than drilling through the floor.  This is the hole before drilling.

And the view from underneath, having removed the plastic underbody cover.

And the size I enlarged the inside hole to.

The pipe now in place.

View from underneath with the cover back in place.

I also had a quick look at the water tank & pump I purchased from Evo Designs.

Prepping for the fridge

I purchased the fridge sometime ago, now it’s time to work out how to fit it (or at least test-fit it).  The model I chose is the Dometic CoolMatic CRX 50.  It was a close-run choice between that one and the Webasto Cruise 49 option.  The main thing that swung it for me is that the CRX 50 has a removable freezer section.

The main thing I wanted to check was how far back I can fit the fridge, i.e. flush or proud of the front of the units.  I’d read that for some models it’s necessary to cut part of the internal frame (at the bottom).  This picture is without the panel in place and before I cut the metal frame.

I put the furniture in place then put the fridge in position too, marked the position of the fridge with tape.

As you can see the fridge is touching the lower frame.

When I offered the fridge up into the correct position it was clear that I’d need to cut the rear ply panel and also the internal van body, which I did (see later).

With the panel is place it’s clear that I need to cut it, along with the lower metal frame.

Marking out the panel to cut it.

Now with the panel cut, and the lower metal frame, the fridge fits quite a bit further back.

TBH, I’m not sure if I will mount the front of the fridge completely flush since I that will restrict the angle that the door can open.  I will probably mount it slightly proud so I can open the door to a greater angle.  At least I’ve done the necessary preparation to choose either option later (this is it mocked up and flush).One point to mention is that Dometic sell two different mounting kits, I don’t have either.  I didn’t like the look of the exposed screws and also wasn’t sure how/if they’d work with my Evo furniture (I checked with Evo Design and they advised that neither are needed).

One other thing I also thought about was ventilation.  My thinking is that I’ll be OK since there’s a gap between the window and the back of the worktop (something I need to tidy up later).