Following on from my earlier blog entry when I fitted the Rib seat under body bracket and drilled the two central rearmost holes, now it’s time to drill the others.
With the furniture in place (albeit not fixed, but in the exact/right position) I fitted the two rear bolts (just the bolts, not the nuts) then lined up the seat so it was square and also ensured the seat didn’t touch the NS wall or the furniture, both in seat and bed mode. I then marked the location of the remaining holes on the wooden floor then drilled them through.
As you’ll see in the next photos my estimates (the yellow dots) weren’t too far off!
This is the NSR hole.
This is the OSR hole which travels through the crossmember so needs the longer bolt to be used.
This is the NSF hole.
This is the OSF hole above the exhaust.
This is the front centre hole, which is the hardest to see since it’s inside the swinging arm suspension mount!
This is a picture with all the bolts in place (just test fit).
So time to put the lining on the OSR panel. A first-time for me since the guys who fitted the roof & windows did the rest.
These are the “invisible” clips I used for the top LHS fixings.
I used spray adhesive (from Kiravans) and applied it to both sides then wait a short time.
Then I carefully applied it (a two person job), putting the lining on top of the ply. I folded the edges over then when the adhesive was set I carefully trimmed the lining back to the edge.
I had to glue some extra bits of ply to enable the back box to fit correctly.
Now ready to fit.
The ply panel I got didn’t have any holes in it for fixing so I had some fun drilling them in the correct locations. Also for some of the holes the standard VW clips weren’t long enough so I bought a few longer ones from here. For this panel I didn’t care that the clips will be visible except on the LHS where I used hidden clips.
When I test fitted the OSR panel I found that it didn’t sit flush on the LHS edge near the window. There aren’t any standard holes to clip the panel in this location so I made some brackets myself and used rivnuts to fix them.
I’d been thinking about what electrical wiring I needed to run behind the panels once I fitted them. Not having converted a van before I was conscious that I’m bound to forget some cable or want to add something later so I’ve decided to use flexible conduit and make sure I have some access in the future.
This is the access point behind the drawer.
And viewed in-place. I’ve added a piece of conduit from this point to the one in the next photo, further back in the van.
This is the point further back in the van.
This shows the access points on the, yet to be covered, rear panel. You can also see the various holes I cut in the top LHS of the panel for the various switches/sockets I’ll be fitting.
The larger hole is for the Propex heater thermostat.
I had to carefully remove the cable housing to fit the cable through the necessary holes.
I also drilled a number of small holes to allow for cable access (and added grommets).
This is the hole for the conduit which will run to under the drivers seat (I didn’t fancy drilling a biggish hole in the bottom of the B-pillar for cable access).
Since I was test fitting the fridge and part of the furniture I thought I better have a look at the plumbing, specifically the waste/drain.
I removed the plastic under panel to see what I could see and also looked from inside at the pre-existing holes behind the door panel. I used a cable rod to find a route through, once I had identified this I used a drill to slightly enlarge the internal hole so the waste hose would fit (there underbody hole was big enough already).
In relation to the drainage pipe, I’d read on a forum that there’s a route through the bottom of the O/S door panel rather than drilling through the floor. This is the hole before drilling.
And the view from underneath, having removed the plastic underbody cover.
And the size I enlarged the inside hole to.
The pipe now in place.
View from underneath with the cover back in place.
I also had a quick look at the water tank & pump I purchased from Evo Designs.
I purchased the fridge sometime ago, now it’s time to work out how to fit it (or at least test-fit it). The model I chose is the Dometic CoolMatic CRX 50. It was a close-run choice between that one and the Webasto Cruise 49 option. The main thing that swung it for me is that the CRX 50 has a removable freezer section.
The main thing I wanted to check was how far back I can fit the fridge, i.e. flush or proud of the front of the units. I’d read that for some models it’s necessary to cut part of the internal frame (at the bottom). This picture is without the panel in place and before I cut the metal frame.
I put the furniture in place then put the fridge in position too, marked the position of the fridge with tape.
As you can see the fridge is touching the lower frame.
When I offered the fridge up into the correct position it was clear that I’d need to cut the rear ply panel and also the internal van body, which I did (see later).
With the panel is place it’s clear that I need to cut it, along with the lower metal frame.
Marking out the panel to cut it.
Now with the panel cut, and the lower metal frame, the fridge fits quite a bit further back.
TBH, I’m not sure if I will mount the front of the fridge completely flush since I that will restrict the angle that the door can open. I will probably mount it slightly proud so I can open the door to a greater angle. At least I’ve done the necessary preparation to choose either option later (this is it mocked up and flush).One point to mention is that Dometic sell two different mounting kits, I don’t have either. I didn’t like the look of the exposed screws and also wasn’t sure how/if they’d work with my Evo furniture (I checked with Evo Design and they advised that neither are needed).
One other thing I also thought about was ventilation. My thinking is that I’ll be OK since there’s a gap between the window and the back of the worktop (something I need to tidy up later).