Prepping the floor, electrics placement & LPG tank brackets

Now I have the exact location of the seat it’s time to consider the fit of other items and also what additional holes I need to drill through the floor.

This is the view from the rear, under the centre section of the Rib seat. I’m planning to locate the leisure battery, chargerand mains consumer unit under hear whislt leaving space for the toilet at the front.
This is the battery mount I purchased on eBay (I don’t want such a heavy item moving at all in a crash!). Also you can see the hole I have drilled to access the negative connection for the battery I have made.
I drilled a hole through the floor then removed all of the paint from both sides around the hole, fitted a long bolt with large washers on both sites to ensure I get a good electrical connection. The second hole is for the conduit I will use for the mains cable from the underbody mounted socket.
View from underneath.
This shows a couple of holes in the unit to the right of the sink.  The larger one is for the gas drop-vent and the other for the gas pipe to the Propex heater.
Next I needed to ensure that the mounts for the LPG tank would be secure. Unfortunatley the location of the brackets meant that I had to modify some of the wooden spacers I’d installed.
One of the brackets I made (I had to cut a section out to avoid one of the battery tray mount holes).
Brackets in place.
All the holes made in the Altro flooring.  Notice the ridges in the flooring, my fault for having it rolled up for too long.  Luckily I managed to get rid of them by leaving it rolled out for a while.

Preparing the OSR panel

The ply panel I got didn’t have any holes in it for fixing so I had some fun drilling them in the correct locations.  Also for some of the holes the standard VW clips weren’t long enough so I bought a few longer ones from here.  For this panel I didn’t care that the clips will be visible except on the LHS where I used hidden clips.

When I test fitted the OSR panel I found that it didn’t sit flush on the LHS edge near the window.  There aren’t any standard holes to clip the panel in this location so I made some brackets myself and used rivnuts to fix them.

And now some electrical prep too

I’d been thinking about what electrical wiring I needed to run behind the panels once I fitted them.  Not having converted a van before I was conscious that I’m bound to forget some cable or want to add something later so I’ve decided to use flexible conduit and make sure I have some access in the future.

This is the access point behind the drawer.

And viewed in-place.  I’ve added a piece of conduit from this point to the one in the next photo, further back in the van.

This is the point further back in the van.

This shows the access points on the, yet to be covered, rear panel.  You can also see the various holes I cut in the top LHS of the panel for the various switches/sockets I’ll be fitting.

The larger hole is for the Propex heater thermostat.

I had to carefully remove the cable housing to fit the cable through the necessary holes.

I also drilled a number of small holes to allow for cable access (and added grommets).

This is the hole for the conduit which will run to under the drivers seat (I didn’t fancy drilling a biggish hole in the bottom of the B-pillar for cable access).

Prepping for the fridge

I purchased the fridge sometime ago, now it’s time to work out how to fit it (or at least test-fit it).  The model I chose is the Dometic CoolMatic CRX 50.  It was a close-run choice between that one and the Webasto Cruise 49 option.  The main thing that swung it for me is that the CRX 50 has a removable freezer section.

The main thing I wanted to check was how far back I can fit the fridge, i.e. flush or proud of the front of the units.  I’d read that for some models it’s necessary to cut part of the internal frame (at the bottom).  This picture is without the panel in place and before I cut the metal frame.

I put the furniture in place then put the fridge in position too, marked the position of the fridge with tape.

As you can see the fridge is touching the lower frame.

When I offered the fridge up into the correct position it was clear that I’d need to cut the rear ply panel and also the internal van body, which I did (see later).

With the panel is place it’s clear that I need to cut it, along with the lower metal frame.

Marking out the panel to cut it.

Now with the panel cut, and the lower metal frame, the fridge fits quite a bit further back.

TBH, I’m not sure if I will mount the front of the fridge completely flush since I that will restrict the angle that the door can open.  I will probably mount it slightly proud so I can open the door to a greater angle.  At least I’ve done the necessary preparation to choose either option later (this is it mocked up and flush).One point to mention is that Dometic sell two different mounting kits, I don’t have either.  I didn’t like the look of the exposed screws and also wasn’t sure how/if they’d work with my Evo furniture (I checked with Evo Design and they advised that neither are needed).

One other thing I also thought about was ventilation.  My thinking is that I’ll be OK since there’s a gap between the window and the back of the worktop (something I need to tidy up later).

Day 3 from underneath…

More fun under the van.  Under the van I tie-wrapped the cable to the fixings for the fuel pipes.
This is the cable poking up under the passenger seat.  I needed a bit of washing up liquid to get the cable through the existing hole.
 More exciting “under van” shots!
 Grommet to the right is the one under the passenger seat.
 Cable continuing to the rear of the van.
 13-pin socket connected.  Don’t forget to fit the grommet/cover first!

Socket fitted to the van.

I chose to use the side entry option since I thought the rear entry one would foul with the spare wheel.

More cable routing, this time from the rear wheels back.

Routing towards the rear bumper.

Right all done with this for today.  Only have the connections to make, saving that for another day!

Day 2 under the van!

Continuing to install the tow bar electrics.  1st removal of the wipers and the cover.  Once the wipers have their nuts removed they come off quite easily (as long as you know to push down on the hinge part to relieve the tension on them).  Next the plastic part/cover just pulls off.



Next I took the battery & plastic shield parts out so I could see where best to route the cable.
Now I can see where I need to go.
I took the battery tray out to have a better look but actually didn’t need to based on where I chose to route the cable.

Battery tray removed.

This is the route I took with the cable (the white nylon line).

This is the view from underneath (again see the white nylon line).

I taped the cable to the line and carefully pulled it down from underneath.

This is the cable from underneath.

I didn’t fix the cable until I had it threaded all the way to the back of the van since I didn’t know how much play there was in the length.

This is the grommet underneath the passenger seat where part of the loom needs to come up through.

Removal of the lower panels above the pedals.

Rubber matting pulled back.

This is the existing grommet which needs to be replaced with the one in the loom (difficult to see, it’s dead centre in the photo behind the steering column).

And again, this time with the original grommet removed.

I tried threading my nylon guide from the engine side but in the end this wasn’t necessary.  All I needed to do was to carefully unclip the small pipe which runs left to right and pull the sound proofing mat away and I could see the hole.
This is the cable/grommet in place (it was very difficult to get the grommet to fit!).

Now the cable is routed down then up in a “U” then behind the dashboard.

Removal of the lower dashboard panels, the smaller upper part hides a screw!

You can see the clips on the lower part here.

Cable pulled through, am not connecting it today so now back to fixing the whole loom in place.

Since the fixed grommet in the loop (behind the accelerator cable) defines that position I started from there with fastening the cable.  This is the route I took on the OS of the engine bay.
Then I threaded the cable behind the sound proofing material (had to remove the two clips to do this).
More tomorrow…

A weekend under my van…

On the new ramps, time to get started!

This is the Kiravans Rib seat fitting kit.

Almost in place, using the spare wheel carrier for support.

Time to remove the exhaust rear heat shield (have already removed the plastic panel above the rear wheel.

Head shield removed.

I marked the area where I’ll need to drill.
I used a couple of clamps to hold the bracket in place, but there’s a problem!  The bracket is too short.  I measured the distance between the vehicle struts and it’s approx. 750mm, the problem is that the bracket is approx. 742mm!  So unfortunately this particular job will have to wait until another day (after I have spoken to Kiravans).
So next job, installation of the wiring for the tow bar.  First the removal of the under-floor plastic panels.
And some more.
View under-body with cover removed.
The cable to be installed.
The bare end for the 13-pin socket (I’ve covered the end to protect it).
The other end, the left part goes to the engine bay (near the battery), the coil in the centre goes across the engine bay / bulkhead and into the passenger compartment (behind the accelerator cable), the end to the right goes up from under the passenger seat.
The end close to the battery, the ECU (not shown) and the fuses.
The end which goes across the bulkhead and down into the passenger area behind the accelerator cable (the grommet in the cable replaces the grommet which is already in-place behind the accelerator).
The end which comes up from under the floor to under the passenger seat.

Spilt charge wiring etc.

I ordered a spilt charge kit (SC120L) and also a “Leisure battery supply loom for aftermarket stereo” kit, both from
First I took of the wiper arms (which was a bit difficult until I lifted the arm up directly under the spring to relieve the pressure.

Then it’s easy to remove the plastic cover.

I then had an amount of rubbish to clean out before I started the installation.

I decided to clean out the offside area too.
This is the part of the slit charge kit.  The cable labelled “2” is the short cable which connects to the van battery.  The long cable, labelled “3” & “4” routes from the engine bay to the passenger compartment (“3” in the engine bay, “4” in the passenger compartment).

This is how the cable routes in the engine compartment.

This is the routing into the passenger area (the cable hasn’t been pulled all the way through yet.

The cable routes through from the van battery via a pre-existing hole/grommet.

In order to route the cable to under the driver seat (where I intend to install the spilt charge relay), it’s easier to remove the seats and the floor mat (this probably isn’t absolutely necessary).

I decided to cut the mat so I didn’t have to disconnect the handbrake cable from the hand brake but then could remove the mat.

Now to get on with the cable routing.

Almost done with the routing.

This is where I chose to install the split charge relay (in the NSF corner).

Reversing camera installation

While I’m waiting for the tow bar bits I thought I’d install the reversing camera I purchased on eBay.
Having removed the internal tailgate panel it’s easy to remove the external plastic part which houses the rear number plate lights.  Just disconnect the electrical connector on the righthand site then undo the 4 nuts.  Then carefully remove the part from the outside (being careful not to snag the electrical connector when doing so).
I was also very pleased to see an unused hole, plugged with a grommet in the tailgate, somewhere to route my cable.
I used the supplied hole cutter to cut a central hole in the plastic part and then pushed the camera into the hole (it was a very tight fit!).  The camera has a pivot on it to adjust the viewing angle which is adjusted with a tiny grub screw.  Looking at where I drilled the hole (front to back), I placed it centrally which will mean I won’t easily be able to adjust the angle of the camera in place, so perhaps I should have drilled further back?
 Camera in place and threaded through to the inside.
 Looks pretty tidy from the outside.
The camera comes with a short cable attached to it, with a non-standard connector on it.  Additionally a far longer cable is supplied which has a single phono plug and a pair of power wires at the other end.
I threaded this cable from inside the tailgate up to the existing gaiter and through into the van itself.  This took some doing especially threading the cable up towards the top of the tailgate and out of the gaiter hole.