Lining the OSR panel and fitting

So time to put the lining on the OSR panel.  A first-time for me since the guys who fitted the roof & windows did the rest.

These are the “invisible” clips I used for the top LHS fixings.

I used spray adhesive (from Kiravans) and applied it to both sides then wait a short time.

Then I carefully applied it (a two person job), putting the lining on top of the ply.  I folded the edges over then when the adhesive was set I carefully trimmed the lining back to the edge.

I had to glue some extra bits of ply to enable the back box to fit correctly.

Now ready to fit.

Preparing the OSR panel

The ply panel I got didn’t have any holes in it for fixing so I had some fun drilling them in the correct locations.  Also for some of the holes the standard VW clips weren’t long enough so I bought a few longer ones from here.  For this panel I didn’t care that the clips will be visible except on the LHS where I used hidden clips.

When I test fitted the OSR panel I found that it didn’t sit flush on the LHS edge near the window.  There aren’t any standard holes to clip the panel in this location so I made some brackets myself and used rivnuts to fix them.

And now some electrical prep too

I’d been thinking about what electrical wiring I needed to run behind the panels once I fitted them.  Not having converted a van before I was conscious that I’m bound to forget some cable or want to add something later so I’ve decided to use flexible conduit and make sure I have some access in the future.

This is the access point behind the drawer.

And viewed in-place.  I’ve added a piece of conduit from this point to the one in the next photo, further back in the van.

This is the point further back in the van.

This shows the access points on the, yet to be covered, rear panel.  You can also see the various holes I cut in the top LHS of the panel for the various switches/sockets I’ll be fitting.

The larger hole is for the Propex heater thermostat.

I had to carefully remove the cable housing to fit the cable through the necessary holes.

I also drilled a number of small holes to allow for cable access (and added grommets).

This is the hole for the conduit which will run to under the drivers seat (I didn’t fancy drilling a biggish hole in the bottom of the B-pillar for cable access).

Time to get the boarding & the bulkhead out

A reasonably successful weekend.  The before…

Time to start…
Taken the panelling out to see if there’s anything scary underneath (their wasn’t) and also unbolted the bulkhead.

A couple of photos for reference before I disconnect the wiring under the passenger seat.

Passenger seat out (secured by 8 nuts).
I disconnected the above electrical connectors and then reconnected them to themselves (they’re only mounted in to the seat frame but seemingly have nothing to do with the seat itself).

Time to remove the lower bulkhead brackets, which are spot welded (the upper brackets are bolted on).  Made good use of a Spot Weld Cutter Set :-).  One thing to be aware of, before you get too creative with a chisel & hammer (which can be useful if you’re careful), disconnect the battery or you might trigger the seatbelt tensioners (explosive charges!), apparently this has happened to a few people… both scary and expensive!!

I used the spot weld cutter and also a power saw to remove the bottom bracket.

I’m not too worried about removing all of the weld since this will be covered by the floor (I removed more than shown in this photo).

Before removing the drivers seat it’s important to put the van in gear and chock the wheels since you’ll need to disturb the handbrake.  I took this photo in case I needed to disconnect the handbrake cable (so I had a record of the number of threads that the bolt was from the end), however in the end I just unbolted the handbrake bracket from the seat and left as-is for now, allowing me to remove the seat.

Drivers seat out now… time to remove the RHS bulkhead brackets.